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Audi — A3 8L, A4 B5 7.8.1

3DColorMFD ver. 7.8.1

You will need:

Soldering iron 40 W

Tin

Flux

Multimetr

Tweezers
Nippers Pliers Knife Thermocouples And screwdriver Torx T10

Safety precautions

DO NOT!

 

ATTENTION!!! When installing a color MFD, there are 3 most important points.

1. You need to configure the power supply to 5.5v. 

The MFD operates at a voltage of 5.5v. When you connect the power supply to the MFD 

you should make sure that the output of the contacts is 5.5v, otherwise it will damage the processor! Paragraph 18

 

2. It is necessary to cut the power paths going to the pins 17,18,19,

then check that they are not voltage-free, you need to supply power to the cluster 

and check with a tester, one probe into the ground of the second to each pin 17,18,19. Should be 0v . Paragraph 10

3. You need to rinse all the soldering points. Install very carefully. 

After soldering the wires, it is essential to rinse the soldering points with special flushing agents 

or isopropyl alcohol. During washing, do not allow alcohol to enter the display or under the display and its board!

 

1. Disassemble the cluster. 

With a screwdriver torx T10, unscrew the two screws edges on the rear of the instrument panel.

 

 

1. Disassemble the cluster.

1.1 With a screwdriver torx T10, unscrew the two screws edges on the rear of the instrument panel.

Bend all the latches neatly remove the front of the case with glass

View from above

Bottom view

1.2 Remove the needles.

There are 2 ways to do it:

  • scroll counter-clockwise and simultaneously pull it to yurself or

  • using using non sharp butter knives or spatula, shoot the arrows from their shafts.

Its better to put paper between the knives and the base of the device to avoid damaging it.

Pull the arrows up to yourself.

 Then remove the substrate.

1.3 Cut the jumpers, we work carefully, so as not to damage the board.

1.4 Remove the excess.

There is  a temperature sensor in a fullFIS clusters. It can be removed with a soldering iron

or simply cut off the sensor tape in any convenient place, so that it does not interfere later.

1.5 With the help of pliers, we bend the metal clamps restraining fullFIS display.

It is necessary to remove the display by gently heating the loop 

with which it is soldered to the board, do not tear off the display as you can damage the dashboard board.

1.6 Solder the plume of the standard display and remove it.

On some instrument panels, the plastic base of the OEM FIS is soldered to the board pretty hard,

to dismantle it — remove the tin, using a soldering iron and a special vacuum.

1.7 Remove the white diffuser.

There are visible white plastic latches, on the back of the board,

bend them with your fingers and take out the white plastic.

It was the basis of the old display.

 

We make sure that there are no jumpers made of tin.
After removing the LEDs, clean the board from tin residues and rinse with alcohol.
 

VERY IMPORTANT:
For instruments with a halfFIS or fullFIS installed, it is necessary to find and cut

of the instrument panel (from the pins 17, 18, 19  of the grey connector)
Below are photos from some instruments.
On your device, the tracks may be located elsewhere

2. Installation

2.1 Start to build wires according to the table. Wires should be cleaned from Isolation, twisted and tin plated.

2.2  Remove LCD board from motherboard and Stretch the wires from MFD motherboard 

to the blue and green connectors (grey — for Audi)  through the holes in the cluster`s board. 

Remove the resistors from the MFD board as shown in the picture.

 

 

  2.3  Take the multimeter, set it to Diode (Ring) mode.

Using multimeter and wiring diagram,  find the wires you need and solder them to the connector pins.

 

Full size image

 

 

2.4 Be sure to twist in a spiral the wires,

which you will be connecting to CAN bus.

Comfort CAN bus — 8 and 9 pins of Green connector;
CAN-bus motor — 19, 20 pins of Green connector.

 

 

 

     

2.5 Lay the wires in such a way that they do not interfere with the installation of white Light diffuser. 

 

In clusters for the American market, there are no open hood and

oil level control resistors, and there are no oil level and temperature sensors in the engine sump.

2.7 The wires should be pulled from the back or as shown above. 

Wires should not interfere with the assembly of the cluster.

 So it’s not right!

2.8 Power connection

There are two types of power supplies

   
   

    
Attention!
Before installing the power supply, you need to solder the wires to its contacts IN+, IN- and OUT+, OUT- ,
then apply a current of 12V to IN+, IN- , and connect the OUT+, OUT- wires to the multimeter.
Now we need to tune the output current. Using a small flat screwdriver, you should rotate tuning resistor
clockwise, until you have 5.5V output voltage on the multimeter.
Next, we place the power supply on the cluster`s back board and bring wires from the blue connector to its contacts.
How to do this, look at the connection diagram specifically for your car model.
Choose the place of installation of the power supply so that during assembly it does not interfere.

Choose the installation location of the power supply so that it does not interfere later in the assembly. For example:

Attention!

After wiring, lay it so that they do not interfere with further assembly.

Need to  call all contacts and check on the table to avoid confusion anywhere.

  

2.9 Before assembly, check the functionality of the module in your car.

3. Assembly

After wiring, lay it so that they do not interfere with further assembly. Check wiring with multimeter, in Diode mode.

On the display, at the back, there is a piece of double-sided tape (if yours doesn`t have it, attach one). Don`t remove the protective film from it! We use it only as a support for the display!

 

  Do not solder these wires! Pins 6 and 7 are spare.  

 

  3.1 Cut off Red USB wire, we don`t need it. 3.2 USB cable should be fixed with glue.  
   

 

 

 

 

3.3 We take double-sided adhesive tape on a foamy basis, cut the squares 1cm X 1cm.

 

3.4 Collect these squares in 3 floors.

 

 
 

3.5 Place them so that nothing prevents you from mounting the module on the board.

 

3.6 Place the module so that it fits in the cluster`s window.

 

 

 

 

3.7 Cut off the main beam guide part. On the red line. Leave the semicircle.

 3.8 Cut off the protruding part!

 

3.9 Install a white diffuser and cut off the excess (as shown in the picture). 

Then place the display and align it so that it clearly fits into the cluster window.

3.10 IMPORTANT! For greater stability, after you have tried and calibrated it, fix its position with hot-melt adhesive. 

 

 

3.11 Next, you need to glue the matte protective film so that the display does not glare in the sun.

Attention!
Be sure to stick the film!
Otherwise, the display may be damaged!

 

To connect the turbo boost pressure control.

You will need to add one PIN to the dashboard 32 pin grey connector.

The other end of the wire must be connected to the engine ECU.
According to the table below, you should find the signal wire of the boost sensor.
When the engine is idling, the voltage on the wire should be between 1.6 and 1.9 volts. 

With an increase in RPM (engine speed), the voltage on this wire should increase.

 


Most often,

On diesel engines (AVB and others):
— 71st pint of ECU, green — red Wire (green with a red stripe);

On petrol (AWM and others):
— 101 pin of ECU, gray — blue wire (gray with a blue stripe).

In general, as I know, in all diesel 1.9Turbo, supercharging is connected to the 71st pin,

And the gasoline 1.8T is connected to the 101 pin. The color of the wire can vary depending on the year / engine.

 

BES 2.7T T121 101 pin

blue-gray

  AJM 1.9TD T121 71 pin

yellow-black

AKN 2.5TD T121 71 pin

yellow-red

  AUY 1.9TD T121 71 pin

yellow-black

BQW 2.0TD T94 78 pin

green-red

  AWT 1.8T T121 101 pin

blue-gray

AVG 1.9TD T80 40 pin

yellow-green

  AWM 1.8T T121 101 pin

blue-gray

AFN 1.9TD T121 70 pin

green-red

  AWD 1.8T T121 101 pin

blue-gray

AVB 1.9TD T121 71 pin

green-red

  AWP 1.8T T121 101 pin

violet-gray

AVF 1.9TD T121 71 pin

green-red

  AUM 1.8T T121 101 pin

violet-gray

AWX 1.9TD T121 71 pin

green-red

  AUQ 1.8T T121 101 pin

violet-gray

AHF 1.9TD T121 71 pin

yellow-black

  ARZ 1.8T T121 101 pin

violet-gray

ALH 1.9TD T121 71 pin

yellow-black

  ARX 1.8T T121 101 pin

violet-gray

ARL 1.9TD T121 71 pin

yellow-black

  ANB 1.8T T121 101 pin

blue-gray

ASV 1.9TD T121 71 pin

yellow-black

  APU 1.8T T121 101 pin

blue-gray

ASZ 1.9TD T121 71 pin

yellow-black

  APB 1.8T T121 101 pin

blue-gray

ATD 1.9TD T121 71 pin

yellow-black

  AMB 1.8T T121 101 pin

blue-gray

AXR 1.9TD T121 71 pin

yellow-black

           
   
   

6. ASSEMBLY

Collect everything in the reverse order, without forgetting to calibrate the needles with the help of the VAG-com program.

 

6.1 To do this, connect cluster to the car  (without cluster glass) and connect it with VAG-com.

 

6.2 Go to unit-17.

 

 

 
 

6.3 Select Test unit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6.4 Make a needle test.

Choose in turn: tachometer, coolant temperature, fuel level and speed .

The needles will make a turn on the whole scale, and then freeze.

Remember or make a photo of difference in readings. Click «Done» and exit from the unit. Turn off ignition, remove the key and set the needles to correct position, turning them back counterclockwise.

 

 
 

 

   
 

6.6.    Tachometer — 3, 000 RPM.

 

6.8.     Speedometer — at 100 km / h

 

 
 

6.9. Coolant temp. — middle

6.7.    Fuel level — middle

 

Then check everything again
You can not turn the needles too quickly correcting the position, you can damage the motors of the needles
You can not turn the needles, when there is power on the device.

6.6 Put back the cluster glass and put the cluster back into the car.

7. Take a photo and post it on all social networks.
Go to auto club meeting and brag to your friends.

8. Show it to your girlfriend/wife with words: «Look what a cool thing I bought for just 20 bucks! » =)