Installing 3DColorMultiMFD in Pa

	Saprankov
	Diaz

Installing manual

Home > VW T5 Highline / Caravelle / Multivan 2003-2010

Click on a link→ VW T4, T5

3DColorMFD ver. 7.7/7.8

VW
1. Passat B5+ (B5.5; 3bg; Fl) IMMO3
   1.1 Passat B5 (B5; 3b) IMMO2
   1.2 Passat B5 (B5; 3b) IMMO2 no CAN
2. Golf , Bora, Jetta IV (4.5 Brasil) IMMO3
   2.1 Golf , Bora, Jetta IV IMMO2 no CAN
3. T4, T5 / Sharan (2003-2010)
4. T4, T5 Hightline (2003-2010)

Skoda
1. Octavia MK1
2. Fabia MK1
3. Superb MK1

Seat
1. Leon 1M
2. Cupra R 1M
3. Toledo 1M

Audi
1. Audi TT
2. Audi A3 (S3) 8L
3. Audi A4 (RS4) B5
4. Audi A4 B6/B7
5. Audi A6 (RS6) C5

You will need:

Soldering iron 40 W	Tin	Flux	Multimetr	Tweezers

Nippers	Pliers	Knife	Thermocouples	And screwdriver Torx T10

Safety precautions

DO NOT!

ATTENTION!!! When installing a color MFD, there are 3 most important points.

1. You need to configure the power supply to 5.5v.

The MFD operates at a voltage of 5.5v. When you connect the power supply to the MFD

you should make sure that the output of the contacts is 5.5v, otherwise it will damage the processor! Paragraph 18

2. It is necessary to cut the power paths going to the pins 23 24 25,

then check that they are not voltage-free, you need to supply power to the cluster

and check with a tester, one probe into the ground of the second to each pin 23 24 25. Should be 0v . Paragraph 10

3. You need to rinse all the soldering points. Install very carefully.

After soldering the wires, it is essential to rinse the soldering points with special flushing agents

or isopropyl alcohol. During washing, do not allow alcohol to enter the display or under the display and its board!

1. Disassemble the cluster.

With a screwdriver torx T10, unscrew the two screws edges on the rear of the instrument panel.

Bend all the latches neatly remove the front of the case with glass

View from above

Bottom view

1. Remove the arrows (scroll counter-clockwise and simultaneously pull ourselves).

Either Using knives for oil or spatula, shoot the arrows from their shafts. It is necessary to put

A cardboard or napkins between the nomes and the base of the device to avoid damaging it. Necessary

Pull the arrows up to yourself.

5. Remove the excess.
On clusters with fullFIS, a temperature sensor is installed, it can be removed with a soldering iron

or simply cut off the sensor tape in any convenient place so that it does not interfere later.

It is necessary to remove the display by gently heating the loop with which it is soldered to the board,

do not tear off the display as you can damage the dashboard board.

6. With the help of pliers we bend the metal clamps restraining fullFIS display.

7. Remove the white diffuser. On the back of the board, are visible white plastic latches,

bend them with your fingers and take out the white plastic

The basis of the display.

8. We solder the plume of the standard display and remove it.

On some instrument panels, the plastic base of the OEM FIS is soldered to the board quite seriously,

to dismantle it is best to remove the tin from using a soldering iron and a special vacuum.

9. Then you need to remove all the LEDs that are were under the standard display

We make sure that there are no jumpers made of tin.

After removing the LEDs, clean the board of the residues of tin and rinse with alcohol

10. VERY IMPORTANT:

For instruments with a halfFIS or fullFIS installed, it is necessary to find and cut
tracks from the pins of the control of the standard FIS
on the board of the instrument panel (from the pins 23, 24, 25 of the green connector)
After need to check that the 23, 24, 25 pins were 0v

Below are photos from some instruments.
On your device, the tracks may be located elsewhere
For dash have noFIS, you just need to check that the 23, 24, 25 pins were 0v

10. We start to build wires according to the table. Wires are cleaned of

Isolation and twisting, ludim and cut off excess.

12. Through the holes in the board of the device, we extend the wires to the blue

And green connectors.

Attention!
Before installation,
check for MFD board
may have errors.
1. On the board ver.7.7 there is an error on silk-printing.

2. On the ver.7.7 board, there is no 3-kOmh resistor (302) at 35 pin MFD, it must be added,
You can take such a resistor on the MFD board, unsolder on a pin that is not used and solder to 35 pin MFD (Brake Liquid Level)

If your MFD is already installed in the instrument panel,
and putting a resistor in place does not solve the problem with a low level of brake fluid,
You need to transfer this wire from 35 pin MFD to 16 pin MFD.

3. On the reverse side of the MFD, a capacitor was mistakenly installed instead of a resistor to 10 kOhm,
The capacitor needs to be soldered, and in its place a 10 kΩ resistor should be soldered.
You can take such a resistor on the MFD board, solder on the pin which

13. Using the tester, we find the wires we need and solder them to the feet connector according to the table.

Full size image

Attention! for T4 and T5, be sure to twist the wire connecting

to the CAN-bus in a spiral and connect as shown in the image below.

8 pin Green connector; 9 pin Green connector; Comfort CAN bus
19 pin Green connector; 20 pin Green connector. CAN-bus motor

You can choose where to solder Can-Bus wires.
1-st way to soldering

Also, for ease of installation, it is possible to solder the wires either according

to the diagram above or from the back of the instrument panel chamber.

2-nd way to soldering

Lay the wires in such a way that they do not interfere with the installation of white

Light diffuser.

16. If you are the lucky owner of Passat B5 released for the

North American or USA market,

you have to add a few SMD resistors to the board of the device.

Since Americans do not bother at all about the engine oil.

In the cluster for the American market there are no resistors responsible

for the level alarm and Oil temperature, and the opening of the hood.

So it's not right!

Attention!

18. Before installing the power supply, you need to solder the wires to it contacts + IN - IN and + OUT - OUT ,

then apply a current of 12V to + IN - IN , and connect the + OUT - OUT wires to the tester.

Now we need to adjust the output current. Using a small flat screwdriver slowly rotate

the special metal knob (figure 1 in the picture.) Clockwise

Arrow, until, at us on the tester will not appear 5,5v in an output voltage.

Next we place the power supply unit on the back side, we bring to its contacts the wires from the blue connector.

9-pin of the blue connector is connected to the e - IN on the power supply board.

23 the leg of the blue connector is connected to + IN On the power supply board,

Contact
+ OUT Connects to the 38 pin MFD

- OUT Connects to 39 pin MFD

Choose the place of installation of the power supply so that

during assembly it does not interfere. Here are the possible

Options:

Attention!

After wiring, lay it so that they do not interfere with further assembly.

Need to call all contacts and check on the table to avoid confusion anywhere.

20. Cut off the main beam guide part.

On the red line.

Leave the semicircle.

21. Bite off the protruding part!

22. Before installing the display, you need to glue two-way

cattle into three layers on the back of the display to lock the display.
Attention, you do not need to attach modules to the board!
It is enough simply to remove an additional support from a double-sided adhesive tape

without removing the protective layer from the side of the module board.

The USB cable should be fixed with glue.
Red USB wire do not use, cut it off.

After you solder the wires and set the display to its place,

you need to test the MFD performance in the car to make sure everything is properly installed and working well.

23. We take double-sided adhesive tape on a foamy basis, cut the squares 1cm X 1cm.

24. We collect these squares in 3 floors.

25. And we place them so that we do not have anything to do with mounting the module on the board

26. Place the module so that it is placed in the window of the device

27. For greater reliability, when the module is already installed on the board,

and you calibrated it in the window so that there were no distortions, it is better to fix it.

Its hot glue along the edges of the module.

Next, you need to glue the matte protective film so that the display does not glare in the sun.

Attention! Be sure to stick the film!
Otherwise, you may damage the display!

If you have a 1J0 comfort unit installed.

Or your car Seat Leon 1M
NECESSARY to stretch the wires from the comfort unit to the appliance
The comfort block 9 -> on the terminals of the 8th leg of the device (CAN-H Comfort) of the green connector.
The comfort block 6 -> on the terminals of the 9th leg of the device (CAN-L Comfort) of the green connector.

Installation of the IMMO3 cluster in a vehicle with IMMO2

When installing the IMMO 3 instrumentation together with the comfort unit 1J0 -It is necessary to remove 2 resistors

Going from 8 and 9 contacts of the green connector, and then connect from 3DColorMFD

To terminals 8 (CAN-H Comfort) and 9 (CAN-L Comfort) of the green connector.

To connect the boost pressure control.

You will need to add one PIN to the dashboard 15 pin green connector.

And the second end of the wire needs to be connected
the signal wire of boost sensor, on this wire at idle should be 1.6v,
with increasing PRM the voltage should increase.
If your motor is not in the table, find the boost sensor under the hood, it has 4 wires,
Use a multimeter to determine the signal wire, remember its color and find this wire in the ECU connector

Usually it is blue - gray wire (blue with a gray bar) to the incoming

On the 101st contact of a smaller brain connector.

On diesel engines (AVB and others):
- 71st contact of the motor brain, green - red Wire (green with a red stripe).

On petrol (AWM and others):
- 101st contact of the motor brain, gray - blue wire (gray with a blue stripe).

In general, as far as I understand, at all B5-x diesel 1.9T supercharging is connected to the 71st

And the gasoline 1.8T is connected to the 101st contact. The color of the wire can vary depending on the year / engine.

BES	2.7T	T121	101 pin	blue-gray	AJM	1.9TD	T121	71 pin	yellow-black
AKN	2.5TD	T121	71 pin	yellow-red	AUY	1.9TD	T121	71 pin	yellow-black
BQW	2.0TD	T94	78 pin	green-red	AWT	1.8T	T121	101 pin	blue-gray
AVG	1.9TD	T80	40 pin	yellow-green	AWM	1.8T	T121	101 pin	blue-gray
AFN	1.9TD	T121	70 pin	green-red	AWD	1.8T	T121	101 pin	blue-gray
AVB	1.9TD	T121	71 pin	green-red	AWP	1.8T	T121	101 pin	violet-gray
AVF	1.9TD	T121	71 pin	green-red	AUM	1.8T	T121	101 pin	violet-gray
AWX	1.9TD	T121	71 pin	green-red	AUQ	1.8T	T121	101 pin	violet-gray
AHF	1.9TD	T121	71 pin	yellow-black	ARZ	1.8T	T121	101 pin	violet-gray
ALH	1.9TD	T121	71 pin	yellow-black	ARX	1.8T	T121	101 pin	violet-gray
ARL	1.9TD	T121	71 pin	yellow-black	ANB	1.8T	T121	101 pin	blue-gray
ASV	1.9TD	T121	71 pin	yellow-black	APU	1.8T	T121	101 pin	blue-gray
ASZ	1.9TD	T121	71 pin	yellow-black	APB	1.8T	T121	101 pin	blue-gray
ATD	1.9TD	T121	71 pin	yellow-black	AMB	1.8T	T121	101 pin	blue-gray
AXR	1.9TD	T121	71 pin	yellow-black